3D printing guides: Making things from Nylon!

3D printing guides: Making things from Nylon!

I’m Tom and today i’m going to show you
how to print Nylon! Now, i know many of you are perfectly happy with printing PLA or ABS,
and i’m not saying that those two are bad plastics to use, what i’ll try to show you
in this video is what you’re missing out on if you’ve never printed nylon. Because
there really is nothing out there that has has similar properties to Taulman’s nylons.
First and foremost, nylon is # tough. In a couple of different ways: It’s got an excellent
layer bonding strength. It doesn’t break when you bend or stretch it. / Because it’s
a material that you # can bend and stretch. It doesn’t snap or break, but instead tears
off like a piece of cloth, which i’ve demonstrated in the “plastic destruction” video, here.
It’s also pretty wear-resistant in things like bushings or gears, though i’d say It’s
still a bit too tacky to directly use it as a bushing. Also, it # rarely has sharp or
spiky edged that might tear up your fingers when cleaning up a print, like those sharp
corners on PLA. And it doesn’t smell nearly as bad as ABS. Though it does have a slight
smell of wet sand to it. Kinda. But you know, basically, nylon is that sweet,
cuddly plastic that / just wants to be your friend.
So, how do you print it? Well, before you print it, you’ll have to deal with the issue
of moisture. Because while Taulman have improved the water absorption of their Bridge nylon
compared to the classic 618 and 645 nylons, that issue still isn’t completely gone.
You will have to dry the filament if you’ve left it sitting around for a few days, and
to do that, you can either throw it in a silicia-gel-filled container and let it sit there for a very
long while, which is also a great way to store it, or throw it in the oven and bake it at
60 to 70 / -ish degrees. / Celsius. I’ve found that two hours of baking takes out most
moisture. If the filament is still moist, you’ll hear the tiny bubbles of steam cracking
while printing and your prints will look ugly, they won’t stick to the build platform and
come out in an opaque white color instead of a milky clear white-ish tone. In fact,
if you print your parts hollow, with only one or two perimeters, they will come out
pretty translucent overall. Next up, how do you get it to stick to the
build plate? Which is something that is usually replied to with “use a sheet of tufnol or
garolite”. And that works, especially for 618 and 645 nylons, but bridge works really
nicely with glue stick as well. In fact, that is what I’m using for basically everything
i print now. For nylon, a heated bed temperature of roughly 90°C helps adhesion, but is not
strictly neccessary. The prints stick much better to # cold glue stick than ABS, which
is completely loose after the bed has cooled down. You might need to experiment with the
amount of glue stick you smear on top of your bed’s surface, but i’ve found that less
is more here and a thin, barely visible layer is usually perfect for getting things to stick
to it. Because nylon requires a fairly hot printing
temperature of around 245°C, depending on your exact configuration maybe a bit more,
you are best off with using a PTFE and PEEK free hotend. Also called all-metal hotends.
Taulman’s nylon only starts to degrade way past 300°C, so have you plenty of wiggle
room if, for example, you’re not getting the layer adhesion you want.
As far as printing speeds go, it will entirely depend on how fast your extruder can go. As
nylon is somewhat flexible, you’re going to get best results if you treat it like a
flexible filament, so if you have the option, add a teflon liner to your extruder and make
sure you get enough grip from your hobbed bolt or drive gear. Taulman recommend speeds
around 25mm/s, but faster or slower speeds will also work. Again, keep your filament
dry for best results, as every bit of moisture in it will degrade your results at any speed.
And that is basically it! Nylon is relatively easy to print, but you might need to experiment
with layer thicknesses, temperatures and speeds to get you the best results. Personally, i
simply used my ABS profile, slowed it down a bit and was pretty happy with it. Just remember
to keep your nylon dry, that is key to getting reliable prints.
If you want to try out printing Nylon, make sure you get the genuine Taulman stuff, there
is a lot of research that went into these filament and many other vendors simply don’t
have the expertise to make nylon filament that prints well. I got mine from E3D, they
sent me a roll to try out, a link to them is in the video’s description. So one more thing, i started a giveaway two
weeks ago, I should have probably made it just one week, but anyways, I’m giving away
two AluHotends. The newer one, the V5C which I used for the review, is going to John Cutburth
II (i hope i pronounced that right), and the V5B is going to Victor Elizondo. Have fun
with your new hotends, and please check your Youtube spam folder for the message I sent
you. So that’s it for today, thank you for watching,
please do click those like, subscribe and share button, and I’ll see you next week.

local_offerevent_note September 11, 2019

account_box Matthew Anderson


61 thoughts on “3D printing guides: Making things from Nylon!”

  • Oven drying your filament works better with an electric oven than with a gas oven, since gas combustion produces water.

  • I hate to complain about any of your videos because they are all great, but the music with a drum beat is distracting!

  • Just stumbled upon your videos, and all I can say is WOW! This is exactly the 3D printing blog/tutorial channel I've been looking for! Thanks for the info on Taulman nylon, I'll have to give it a try sometime!

  • Just got a roll of 618. Any suggestions for getting Printrbot Simple Metal to print nylon? Maybe replace extruder first?

  • @Thomas Sanladerer you have a great channel. Every sunday I am waiting for your new video.

    Which brand glue stick are you using? Is it pva based or something else? I was not succesful with abs and glue stick.


  • how's pc for warping? been waiting to try it once i've finished my delta's chamber. thanks for the tip on the 150+bed temp, need to redesign mine anyways.

  • On my Ultimaker Original Taulmann 618 prints at 242°C with 60mm/s infill speed, 40/45mm/s for in/outlines on hairsprayed Acrylic printbed, covered with green Tape (Noname from coobx.at), with Gluestick on it.
    The print sticks very well on the gluesticked tape but not as well the tape on the Acrylic printbed.
    Nevertheless – I get very well prints with low warping.
    I never thougt I could print nylon in this way.

    Two example timelapse videos:

  • Could you maybe do an overview of printing temperatures and bedsurface temperatures for all materials you printed so far? (And bed coatings you tried)

  • Do you find this Nylon has better layer strength than generic ABS? This would be awesome for the price if it does not de-laminate like Tritan.

  • How close is printing Taulman Alloy 910 to your recommended nylon print settings? So far I have been really struggling with getting good layer adhesion. Will you do a review on Alloy 910?

  • Hi Tom. Great video. Ive been researching 3d printing for a while now.I literally just ordered my printer. one project I intend to try is making a replacement speedometer gear for my scooter, the originals are nylon so this video gives me high hope of making a new one for my bike.

    I have a couple questions. you mention printing on a surface, but i couldn't quite catch what you called it (garolite?) and then the glue stick, im wondering what the material is and is the glue stick just normal brands you can find in office supply sections of store?

  • Hello Thomas, Thank you for your great useful channel!
    1-I'm tired from searching for the best filament for printing quadcopter frames.. What do you recommend please?
    2-What is the best filament for a non-bending part (stiffer than PLA)?
    3-What rubber-like filament do you recommend for printing that can be used to prevent water from escaping between two moving parts? (Ninjaflex degrades after 30 days)
    Waiting your answers to order some filaments 🙂
    Thank you in advance.

  • Can you tell me how to stick nylon on heated bed? I tried most things but still not getting result.

  • +Thomas Sanladerer I am using a Printrbot Simple Metal ( i know i made the wrong choice in printer) with the ceramic hotend. Im getting i can not finish a print without jamming. Can you share the setting you used when printing Taulman 910 on Printrbot simple?
    What could be causing my jamming? my setting 255-260c , 20mms .2mm layer height…… any help would be appreciated.
    BTW awesome channel!

  • Went to e3d to purchase some filament on the strength of your video…. that is until I find out that e3d advertise their prices Without VAT until you get to the checkout.. way to go e3d customers just love to feel deceived before even buying from you, rest assured as good the product "might" be deception is not a great business model..

  • What is that annoying knocking noise in your sound track? Got the Poltergeist? Sounds like a cracked vinyl disk in fast forward mode.

    I found out (for Taulmann 618) that 'hard paper' (Pertinax in the german market) roughened up with coarse sandpaper (60 grade or so) heated up to 100°C is a perfectly holding printing base. I guess it will also work for Bridge.

  • anyone using heated bed with piece of glass and some hairspray "aquanet stuff in pink aerosol can" for nylon .645.

  • Hey Tom, I was wondering how a PEI heated bed works for printing Bridge Nylon? I want to be sure it doesn't stick too well, like I've heard can happen with some filaments like Ninja Flex.

  • Thanks for doing good and informative videos! 🙂 What is your experience printing this with the Prusa i3 mk2? does the original hot-end with that printer work well with this filament?

  • hey Tom,

    hope you're well. i have a question about nylon and thought i'd put it here as my search brought me back to your very familiar and useful channel. 🙂
    have you tried baking nylon prints after printing to see how it effects their strength, like you did with PLA for such great results? from what i see delamination can be an issue so i thought it could help make nylon prints even tougher.
    i'll get a spool and will try it out soon but thought i'd ask since you've already done so many thorough tests. thanks for any info, see you in the next video! 😀

  • Nylon is the steel of plastics, it's that semi-opaque white plastic(usually stained by grease) you see SOMEHOW working as a gear in power tools or automotive parts. Strong stuff. It has to be very dry when melted as it has more of a problems with popping than other plastics.

  • Yet another awesome video! I don't know why everyone says ABS stinks while printing. It just smells to me like what I'd describe as 'hot plastic'. Pretty mild in terms of smell strength in my limited experience printing the Hatchbox ABS. Though that being said, I definitely don't print in the same room!

  • Hey Tom what bed do you recommend I see you are using aluminum how does that compare to the new Prusa bed?

  • What we need is a filament that doesn't melt after being melted for the first time (heat resistant). A molecular change needs to happen after being heated.

  • Tom can we get a nylon comparison video? I am curious about the different types of Taulman filament. I saw a video that went over some but didn't cover Nylon "bridge" can you possibly help us here?

  • Sorry for being late to the party but do you have to "bake" your roll of filament every time if you it in ziplock with the anti-moisture thingy (sorry, I forgot the name of this)?

  • Hi Thomas…I've been printing for quite a while and would like to try Nylon, but the power supply that came with my 3D printer just doesn't have the amps to get up to 240 degrees. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement PS? FWIW, my printer is a Geeetech Aluminum Prusa i3.

  • I HAVE QUESTION; After printing and getting any initial moisture out is it ok to use it in wet conditions where water can easily get to it?

  • Ancient vid, popped up accidentally from one of your newer ones, but WHATEVER —

    it reminded me of my sad experience with Bridge, regarding which I DID have such high hopes (due to its impressive stats at the time, now quite overshadowed by newer offerings): I bought 2 spools of it for my 1.75 Bowden printer – wasted the vast majority of it – I mean TOTALLY WASTED – because it was so irregular in its OD that, though it might print for awhile, almost NEVER would it behave for an entire print job to complete! When I cried about it to Tom, he kindly sent me one more spool, but it was no better so it was still a complete waste of my money! Measuring the fool stuff, sometimes it was as large as 2.04mm OD! Oh well – it basically pushed me to abandon the Bowden experiment (where I THOUGHT it would be a clever UPgrade to my PrintRbot headache).

    So, Thomas, if you drop back and pick this up, what do you print nylon onto these days, as it's my blunderstanding that the nifty beds of your i3 mk3 and your Ender 3 are incompatible with nylons – yes/no???

  • There used to be a nylon-type plastic called Minlon, it was very strong and durable. Is that available as a filament?

  • The drying part is easy. Just use a food dehydrator. It's all the print settings that need to be tweaked which I feel is the difficult part of printing polyamides/nylon. I have tried the Taulman Bridge and the Taulman Alloy 910. Both absorb dye beautifully which was my original incentive for printing this material. It's fun to customize. I seem to be getting excellent bed adhesion by using hairspray as a coating on my PEI spring steel sheet. The problem is it is TOO good of an adhesion, and the first few layers tend to delaminate when I go to remove my printed object. I guess I need to try using a scraper but I am scared of damaging my sheet.

  • Am confused some people tell u to print at low speed some say higher speed I have 2 printer 3 ender and the demal witch temp and speed should I have them at?

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