Cura Fuzzy Skin and Ironing on 3D Prints

Cura Fuzzy Skin and Ironing on 3D Prints

I like to print on a glass bed that way
I get a smooth surface on the bottom or flip it over and get a smooth surface on
the top of my 3d prints. But if you’re doing lettering you really want that
lettering on the top. So can you get a smooth surface on top? Cura has a way to do that. There’s also a way to get a textured finish. I’ll show you both of
these features and how to use them on today’s Filament Friday. This week’s
episode is brought to you by these patreon supporters. To show you how to
smooth the top of a print I’m just going to use my CHEP cube with the letter Z on
top but before we get there there’s another feature I wanted to show you
that I didn’t mention. And that’s the concentric pattern on the bottom. I love
this on my prints especially circles. You’ll get concentric squares on a
square item, concentric circles on a round item. And it really comes out
cool-looking on the bottom. It’s a nice feature and it’s real easy to set up. You
go over to the settings and you set bottom pattern initial layer. You may
have to enable it separately, but it gives you lines, concentric and zigzag. I
really like the concentric and I love watching to go down like here on the
first layer. Beyond that first layer then, I just use
zigzag after the initial layer of concentric. Then it prints zigzag on top
of that and goes all the way up. And I just set that at the top and bottom pattern
of zigzag. You can go concentric or even lines all the way up.
I like the zigzag so now let’s scroll this all the way up to the top. You’ll
see the top surface, and you’ll see it’s kind of fuzzy. If I go down one layer
you’ll see the zigzag like I set the top and bottom to be. But if I go up that one
extra layer, it gets kind of a fuzzy look to it. And you can see it on the Z as
well because that’s a top layer. In fact it’s easier to see on the Z, so let me
scroll down to the Z layer. If I bring it down and bring it back up to layer 203 then one more layer, you see the fuzziness on the Z. It’s very clear
that is ironing. If you enable ironing on your print it’ll smooth out the top and
you can choose concentric or zigzag. I found there really wasn’t a big
difference. I mostly use the default settings. But the ironing line spacing
you increase that if you’ve got a bigger print. Next is the ironing flow. It
actually extrudes a little bit of plastic ten percent of the flow. I really
didn’t see a major difference when I adjusted that. Final one is the offset.
It’s just the offset from the edge of where the ironing will actually start. If
you don’t see these settings then you can enable them by going up to the gear
and then in the set visibility just type ironing. You’ll see all the options.
There’s a speed, acceleration and jerk I didn’t use but all the other ones I did
And here’s a simulation running in Cura. It finishes doing the zigzag and then it
starts to do the ironing. It’s actually like melting a little bit of plastic, I
believe, but then it’s adding a little bit of plastic to melt in. And it’s just
gonna go across the whole top of the print like this and then when it’s done
here’s the result. What you don’t see is any of the zigzag movement. Here, look
at the original. You can see the zigzag on the Z and also on the top surface.
And here they are side-by-side. All the zigzag is melted out. Even the inset to
the Z, and the Z looks crisper when I do this. So I really love this feature. I
don’t use it all the time. Bigger prints don’t seem to come out as good as
smaller prints. But I love this feature. The next feature is texture and here’s a
previous Filament Friday project I made. This handle for my paper cutter.
I wanted it rough. To get a little bit rougher surface, I printed it at a
higher layer height. That way it’s not as smooth and it gave me a good grip. I’ve
been pretty happy with this handle. It fits really nicely on the arm. You can
see it’s got a cut out. A rectangular cutout so it slides right over the
existing arm. But recently one of my patreon supporters Bill Karkula
asked me if there was a way to do a textured finish. In the experimental
section of Cura there is. It’s called fuzzy skin. If you don’t have this, click
on the gear. Type fuzzy in the search box. There’s four settings. You check those
and hit close then it should show up. What surprised me the most is it really
doesn’t take much more time to do this. So I click on fuzzy skin. I’m going to
use the default settings. You can change the look and feel a little bit with
these. But it was three hours and 28 minutes to print it before and after
slicing it with this fuzzy skin, it’s gonna take three hours and 37 minutes.
So like 9 minutes more. The Cura layer view does a really good job of
representing this as well. So when you adjust those settings, you get a good
idea of how this thing is going to look. You’ll see that this is very close to
the final print. It won’t put a fuzzy skin on the top or the bottom of the
print. It’s only on the sides and that’s a problem here because, I have the inside
was smooth to slide over the arm of the cutter. So I really should oversize this
a bit if I want to use this. And there’s no way to remove that only from the
inside, at least not that I could find. But because my design is rounded at the
top all that was considered a side so when I go all the way to the top you can
see it’s fuzzy skin all the way to the top. Except a small patch. Now on the
bottom where it’s printed on the bed it’s smooth and you can see the
concentric pattern, but everywhere else it’s pretty much fuzzy skin or textured
finish. I really like it. So here they are. The original on top.
Definitely not a good print on purpose. And on the bottom is the textured and
you really can’t tell it’s 3d printed. I mean you can’t even look at the bottom.
But I love the way it turned out. Really speckled. It feels good in the hand. It’s
got a nice grip. This is a very useful technique in Cura. I think these are
very handy features. Being able to smooth out the top of a 3d print or textured.
That can be very handy for some practical prints. So these are two
features in Cura I think everyone should know about. So that’s it for this
one. If you like what I’m doing here, maybe check out some of these videos
that are popping up. If you want to help support the channel,
patreon is one way to do it or just buy through the affiliate links in the
description below. It helps a lot. And if nothing else click on that CHEP logo
over there and subscribe. I’ll see you next time right here at
Filament Friday.

100 thoughts on “Cura Fuzzy Skin and Ironing on 3D Prints”

  • Couldn’t you draw a box around that handle insert and give the gray box it’s own printing properties? I learned how to use this feature from you when I want to do 100% infill on a small portion of a print…

  • I am really happy that did you made a video about ironing, I love that feature. Have yet to try the fuzzy skin. Thanks

  • Hey Chuck, You're right, those are 2 awesome features that we should all know about … and now we do, and we know how they turn out. Great work!

  • @CHEP everyone agrees that space between Ender 3 hotend and PTFE tube is bad. Could you do the experiment? -make the space on purpose, print with one color, switch to another color, and then see how long the old color stays trapped.

  • Hey Chuck, can you set your fuzzy pattern for the entire print and then use a support blocker to setup the inside piece to not be fuzzy? Just a though, great video, thanks!

  • Hey Chuck, not sure if anyone has mentioned this. But I use fuzzy skin a lot on my projects and you can use the support blockers to change the settings between models and use that to cancel out the fuzzy skin in the hole of the handle. Just resize the support blocker to encompass the hole and be mindful not to have it overlap the outside shape and you're all good!

  • Support blocker does work to smooth out the inside. Thanks to passmoj and Shadow the wiseman for helping me get past the mistake I was making. Here a video explaining the steps.

  • Your fuzzy-settings don't look too good. Point distance is too high, it looks too "liney". I got the best results with a thickness of 0.2mm and a distance of 0.3, this way the lines almost get invisible. don't go too low on the distance though, as a rule of thumb I usually stay between 1.5-1.8 times the thickness regarding the distance value.
    Also, adaptive layers would have helped a LOT on the top section of your part. Adaptive layers, Fuzzy Skin and Ironing are the most important additional features on Cura for me, with a little tweaking the prints don't look like 3D-printed at all – at least to people that aren't into 3D-printing 😉
    I'd also have to thank you for promoting the concentric pattern, you're the first youtuber I came across that actually likes this feature just about as much as I do… I really wonder why this isn't getting more attention…
    Anyway, enough of that. Thank you very much for allyour work, keep it up!

  • For a non-fuzzy part, just use the blocker as you did for the changing of infill. Make a block and switch off fuzzy skin. Works for my fuzzy parts with non-fuzzy parts for screws. Oops I see, you mention IT now

  • Fuzzy skin + aslant (diagonal) printing with wood filament:

  • hello i have found your video really intresting i have since use fuzzy skin on handles whould you please be able to check out this vid, its were i placed carbon fiber fabric ontop of normal pla for streangth and plese subscribe as my colleage theacher has challanged me to get 1000 subs. any tips to get subs will be use full,

  • Just a thought, but if you do "fuzzy skin", it might be easier to sand down. Or rather, it will help hide the layer lines as you sand it.

  • fantastic tips chuck! I've never ventured out from S3D but the Iron setting has me really intrigued I might give it a go!

  • Ironing is broken in the version of Cura you're using. If you notice, there are sections it misses/ignores which isn't supposed to happen. It's fixed in Beta 2 onwards on version 4 of Cura.

  • Perhaps suppor blocker wont work but what if you but anothwr object into it which have normal skin, and that another handle with Fuzzy skin?

    That anothee object can be just only cube with rightSize hole

  • Another couple of gems in the way of tips, Chuck. already put to good use on a couple of prints and they work great. Thank you!

  • you can use the plugin "support blocker" and make it the size of the inside and then use "per model setting" (selecting the support blocker) and turn on/off fuzzy skin for that

  • Very informative, thanks. Interestingly the developers of cura said they cannot be sure ironing will not wear the printer adversely as the head is actually dragging over the surface rather than hovering above it. I have not used it much as I don't like the idea of the nozzle making contact with the model to remelt the top layer. So really user be aware. But it clearly works, the surface finish is much better !

  • jeez man those features are years old.
    3 things i hate about CURA. Cant preview print knowing what nozzle is doing. It would help to see where it retracts and where it doesnt.
    And it has no good retraction settings. It only retracts based on travel distance.
    I would like to have NO retraction during infill and ALWAYS retract when switching perimeters.
    3rd problem is the killer. When you have multiple perimeters to print, it will not complete one and move to another. It will print each perimeter little one pass at the time jumping back and forth.

  • Had an idea that might make it non fuzzy inside. Add a full 0.1mm layer across the bottom of your handle in the design program. Then the inside part is now technically a "void" instead of an "outside"
    Then when you put it in cura it might only fuzz up the outside and not the internal void where the handle attaches. The 0.1 layer will be thin enough to just poke your finger through and file off the rough edge.

    Let me know how it goes. I'd test it myself but I'm in hospital for the next week or so. Having 3d printer and maker withdrawals while I'm here, that's why I'm getting my fix watching your videos haha

  • Very nice video, i've subscribed. I am a bit familiar with 3D printing but still i don't have my own but i am planning on buying one soon. I have a flexible budget and would like to make small to medium automotive parts with 0.1mm precision, mainly for prototyping and reverse engineering. Is there is a master list website with all available 3d printers so i can compare? Also not sure with what technology to go with. What do you recommend? Kind regards

  • plasti-dip that fuzzy skin handle you printed, I bet it would look like a manufactured piece of equipment at that point.

  • Hi chuck,thanks for a great video,the iron feature works amazing,I've had no use for the fuzzy feature yet,but the iron feature worked so well on my giant Lego mansion shirt,you've got me as a sub,thanks again

  • Going back to the Marvin video, couldn't you have placed a Support Blocker and disabled Fuzzy Skin only on the inside?

  • This definitively a reference channel on 3D printing : we find here in a few minutes what should take hours to seek anywhere else !!

  • Didn't know this. Will definitely try.
    I really hate the shiny finish of my glass bed, I don't understand why everyone likes it so much, I tend to sand it so it looks more like the rest of the print.

  • Thank you for the fantastic video! 🙂 Should i buy Simplify or is Cura good enough now – whats your reading? Have Cura the useful feature, that i can compensate the outer perimeter, wich the nozle drives – for example, that (Lego)-bricks fit (almost) perfectly to one another? You show this feature in a Simplify-video, some time ago. In german professional machines, like STL (SLA) and SLS, thats called "Konturkompensation". Best greetings from Germany! 🙂

  • Great idea, putting some parchment paper over the top surface and pressing on an iron would certainly do the trick.

  • Hello ,in this video you r showing top and bottom surface with smooth surface ,but i need smooth surface on walls of 3d model can you post a video on this

  • Hey thanks for the pointers I knew about the ironing but I didn't know about the bumpy skin or fuzzy skin

  • Great and to the point video!

    I often use Cura’s fuzzy skin option when working with lighting (lamp shades, diffusers for neopixels, etc.). It diffuses the light much better than a regular ‘smooth’ finish does.

  • I've seen these features in Cura and didn't spend the time to play with them. Thank you for taking the time to show them off. I'll definitely be using the ironing after seeing the results and I may use the fuzzy skin.

  • Can you do a ironing video for PETG and dial that in? I really like your comparative / iterative approach to making improvements. I tried ironing PETG using what I saw on PLA and the results were not very good. I figured it might not work well for PETG, but maybe there are some tweaks in speed / depth / flow rate and I'm really not sure where to begin to try and make improvements.

  • interesting, I had already seen the ironing in action and I knew about the fuzzy skin option too, but it's the first time I'm seeing the result for that, looks good. I don't really have any objects I'd want to use it on, but at least I know it works if I ever need it

  • Very informative, thanks! Is there a way to to make only the top layer (of a flat surface print) fuzzy?

  • The "list" of patron supporters is fucking disgusting. It's just a big block of text. How can I find my name is that?

  • You can use fuzzy print then smooth it with acetone. Because of the fuzzy print you will lose less detail.

  • You are on Fire with these awesome tricks. Please keep them coming. Really looking forward to trying this setting.

  • I thought you were going to take an actual iron to the piece. Maybe with a sheet of wax paper in between.

  • I'm working on a pretty big topo map and am wondering if anyone knows how well this IRONING feature would work for that. Didn't want to waste the time and filament, if not…

  • “I love watching it go down right here, like on the bottom layer.” – as the printer is laying down a fat swazzy

  • I just subscribe and I have to ask, I been working on making a 6 sided dice and the button side never comes out right.

    Is there any tricks or tips that I could do in order to fix it?

  • ohh, the more i know about cure, the more sad i become cuz it wont install on any pc i have lmao…..i want some F please…

  • for the fuzzy skin, did you try "remove supports" function of cura, to change the how th inside is printed?

  • Thanks for the videos. Got my Ender 3 on Sunday and learning a lot this week. For the ironing you have the line spacing at .1 mm. Will that setting benefit from going to the .12 magic number too?

  • What type Cura was you using? Nice shows very informative. Trying to see if the 4.0, 4.1 or 4.2.1 has these setting or are you using 3.6.

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