For an upcoming project I had to design this 3-way corner fitting for PVC pipes. So, I exported it as an .STL file. Sliced it with my slicer software of my 3D printer and finally used my well-working Prusa i3 MK3 to -obviously- print it! But coming from a videography point of view, isn’t it kinda boring to see different time-points of the printing process and finally having me remove the printed parts I think, it is way more appealing to record either a very long video or tons of pictures with a fixed time interval between them. Then speeding this footage up to create a sort of time-lapse effect. Only problem is that neither the 3D printed object nor the printer had stayed in place. Which makes this time-lapse horrible to look at. To solve this problem, I will show you in this video how to use Octoprint with Octolapse and install a small modification to my 3D printer to create intriguing looking time-lapses. Which look like a 3D print grows on its own over time. Let’s get started! First of all let’s think about the theory of such time-lapses. Whenever the 3D printer finishes one layer of te 3D print we want the hot end and pad to move to a specific place. Which always needs to be the same and wait there for a second. During that time we take a picture with the camera. And afterwards the printer continues printing the next layer before repeating this process. We do this for all layers of the 3Dprint and then use an editing software to turn our still images into a small time-lapse video. Now, to do the picture taking process there exist 2 popular options. The first one is to inject a special G-code into the slicing software and then using a camera wit ha remote trigger to take a picture after every layer change. This method was actually recommended to me by Josef Prusa over Twitter. And the attached tutorial guide offered all information about how to activate the remote trigger feature and create a suitable electronic circuit for it. As well as where to hook up the wires to the 3D printer and what kind of code we would have to inject after every layer change I’m pretty sure this method works perfectly fine but I wanted to try the Octoprint and Octolapse methods. In case you don’t know yet Octoprint is a remote control and monitoring software. That you can install -for example- on a Raspberry Pi. But feel free to learn more about it From the video that I had created back in 2016. Anyway, after grabbing myself a Raspberry Pi 3 model B that I had laying around I removed its micro-SD card and plugged it into my computer and downloaded the latest OctoPi release. Afterwards I used Etcher to burn the downloaded image file onto the SD card. Edited the OctoPi WPA Applicant’s text file with Notepad++. So that the Pi connects to my Wi-Fi network. Removed the SD card, plugged it back into my Pi, connected my 3D printer through its USB port to it and finally powered the PI with 5V through a micro USB cable. After then connecting to my RaspberryPi through my browser, I did a pretty self-explanatory first time setup and finally go to the Octoprint user interface in less than 5 minutes. Here we can connect to the printer, control its functions, start prints and all of that good stuff. But what we are mainly after is Octolapse. Which is a plugin that creates time-lapses of your 3D prints. Which also comes with tons of awesome features. That you can have a look at on their website. To implement it, I opened the Octoprint settings, navigated to Plugin Manager Searched for Octolapse and simply installed it. That’s it! After restarting the Octoprint software, we got and extra Octolapse tab where we can fine-tune this plugin. But what I noticed right at the start that I got no webcam connected yet! That is why I got myself this RaspberryPi camera module, version 2. Whose Flat Flex ribbon cable was a bit short for the intended application. So, after replacing it with a 1 metre one, I hooked up the other side of the cable to the RaspberryPi. Powered it and thus got a working webcam stream through the Octoprint software. But placing it in a permanent position, next to the printer was still impossible. That is why I downloaded this camera stand designed by “attleberg”from Thingiverse. and 3D printed all of its 3 parts in less than 3 hours. After assembling, the stand with M3 screw and nuts, placed the camera inside it, secured its lids with a bit of scotch tape and finally hot glued it to a sturdier pedestal. Then all I had to do was to position the camera properly to get a decent looking still image. At this point, I started adjusting the Octolapse settings and finally deciding on these. Which eventually spat out decent looking time-lapses. But feel free to experiment because there are tons of options to fine-tweak. But anyway, as soon as I uplodaded the G-code, of my 3-way fitting, locally to the Octoprint software and hitting print the 3D printer did the usual heating up and leveling procedure. But as soon as the actual print started, I noticed that the Octolapse software was working properly. Since it was moving the head and pads properly to a fixed position after every printed layer. And after waiting for around 2 hrs and 45 minutes, it was only longer than the slicer software calculated. Obviously, due to the time necessary for the fixed time-lapse position, the print was finally complete! And the Octolapse software spat out a finished video file that I could download. And let’s just say, we are not done yet! Because this time-lapse looks blurry, and only features a resolution of 640*480 The reason is that forgot to set the resolution of the Raspberry Pi camera to 1920*1080 pixels in the OctoPi.txt file. As well, as adjusting the focus of the camera. With those fixes, the streamed image looked way better and thus I didn’t have a test round with the Octolapse software. Which ultimately created a time-lapse which was not half bad. Nice! But I was still looking for better image quality. Thus I turned to my DSLR camera. The Cannon EOS 700D. By utilizing 2.5mm audio jack cable. Connecting one side of it to the external trigger port of the camera and shorting the other side’s sleeve and tip contacts, the camera takes a picture if the manual focus is selected. So by using this small switch, which I salvaged from a microwave, I cut off the 2.5mm plug Soldered the 2 required wires, directly to the Normally Open contacts of the switch and thus I got and external trigger for the camera. Luckily, my 3D printer got a screw to its right side. Close to the Z-axis. Which I removed and replaced with a longer M3 screw. To secure the switch to the printer. The only problem was that in the fixed time-lapse position the print-head does not activate the switch yet. To solve this, we can go with my favourite solution: By simply adding a bit of hot glue to the switch. And just like that the head reaches our switch now, without a problem. So, I added a tripod to the camera, positioned it properly. Next to my 3D printer. Connected the external trigger switch. And started the 3D print with Octolapse activated. As you can see, the camera did its job without a problem. As soon as the print was complete, I removed its SD card and imported all of its pictures into Adobe Premium Pro software. Which functions nicely, when it comes to creating time-lapses. Due to the high resolution of its pictures, it is easily possible to add some movements. So, as a comparison, here is the time-lapse from the Raspberry Pi camera and here is the DSLR camera time-lapse. Which, in my opinion, truly looks stunning! Last, but definitely not least, I searched for more interesting to look at 3D prints on Thingiverse. And found this skull pencil holder. Designed by “philnelson”. Whose time-lapse setup was a bit hard to prepare. Since you never precisely know how big the object will be. But in the end, the picture taking process worked out smoothly. And as you can see, this is how you can create some really awesome 3D printing time-lapses. I hope you enjoyed this video. So, don’t forget to share, like and subscribe. STAY CREATIVE AND I WILL SEE YOU NEXT TIME!