How To Remove Swirls, Scratches & Polish Paint with the Porter Cable 7424XP – Chemical Guys

How To Remove Swirls, Scratches & Polish Paint with the Porter Cable 7424XP – Chemical Guys


Swirl marks and scratches are some of the worst problems to occur to any painted vehicle! Swirl marks and scratches bring down the look of any vehicle, making them look neglected, uncared for, and can bring down their value. You can spend months polishing a car by hand… Endless hours trying to achieve the look professionals achieve… But today I’m going to show you how to remove swirls and scratches from a vehicle using machine polishing. Today I’m going to do that using the Porter Cable 7424 Dual Action Polisher. With today’s dual action polisher technology, anybody can easily polish paint with
perfect results every time! So today I’m going to use our V-Line of polishes, which we call the “Optical Finish Polish Line.” First up is our V34. This is our hybrid compound. It cuts through paint really fast, and
get the look everybody loves quickly and easily. This is for heavily-oxidized, scratched, and swirled paint that needs extra time and attention with a wool pad, or heavy cutting pad. Next up is our V36 Optical Grade Cutting Polish. This is a medium swirl remover that helps remove minors swirls and scratches that you might get from daily driving. Our next step is V38 Optical Grade Final Polish. This is a true jeweler’s polish that brings out the deep luster of your paint, removing any buffer holograms or marring you may have left over. To use our polishes, I’m going to pair them with our Hex-Logic series pads. I’m going to cut the paint using V36 on an orange cutting pad, that’s gonna give me a nice cut, and remove all the heavy swirls and scratches on the paint. The car is not extremely swirled or scratched, so I can skip the V34 and go straight to V36. Next I will use V38 with a white Hex-Logic polishing pad. This will bring out the deep luster of the paint, and help the metallic fleck pop! Lastly, I’ll use the Hex-Logic black finishing pad to seal the paint with JetSeal, or a wax. That will give us the ultimate protection to preserve our newly-polished finish. First I’m going to inspect the paint with this Halogen/LED inspection light. With just one look, you can see the paint has been washed improperly several times, and have marring and vertical scratches
all over the vehicle. These scratches come from using improper wash mitts or dirty towels. There are also some swirls from wiping in circular motions. We should be able to take care of those today using our V-Line of polishes to cut through and get the finish everybody loves. To show you how easy it is to use the “Optical Finish Polish Line,” I’m going to put a piece of tape down and make a square right on the hood so you see an exact 50/50 difference before and after. I went ahead and put down the square to show you the proper techniques to use when polishing your car with a dual action polisher. This is the exact work area size you should polish when moving across the whole hood. If you can finish this area correctly, you can do the whole car perfectly. I’m going to grab my Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher. The 5” backing plate accommodates 5.5” pads, perfect for this surface: not too big, not too little. Our Hex-Logic pads use a hook-and-loop backing system, so all you have to do is press it to the machine itself. Nice and balanced for good rotation, and
good polishing technique right on the vehicle. I also placed some Sharpie lines on the backing plate itself. These shows you that you’re getting proper rotation of the machine. When the machine is rotating properly, the pad will spin. When the machine is not rotating properly, the pad will just vibrate side to side. Let’s start the polishing process: First thing we grab is our pad conditioner. This softens the pad, especially this new, dry pad. We don’t want dry friction rubbing
on our paint, causing more marring. We want to eliminate the scratches, not cause more! All we need is two light sprays of pad conditioner right on the pad. Then I’ll grab our V36 cutting polish. To use V36, give it a good shake, then go ahead and place 5 dots right on the pad itself. The dots need to be no bigger than the size of a pea because we don’t want too much! If you too much polish, you’re not going to
get the right technique, and you’re not gonna get the right results out of your polishing job. First thing, place the cord of the machine over your shoulder so you don’t bang the cord across surface, causing more scratches. Next we dab the pad across the surface to spread the polish out across the surface of the panel. We do this so we don’t get any splatter once we turn on the machine. Next, turn the machine down to speed setting 1. This is just to spread out the polish and get the process going. So let’s go ahead and spread our V36. We now have a nice even spread across the hood to ensure a nice work area. Next, since we’re removing swirls and scratches with a cutting pad, we’re gonna bump the machine up to speed setting 6. We need that power and that cutting
capability to remove all the swirls and scratches from the vehicle. So: Let’s start polishing! I want you to observe that I polish in a 50/50 overlapping pattern going left to right, down a row, then right to left. After I finish the whole area, I change my pattern to up a row, then down a row. So: Let’s go ahead and start the polishing process! I’m gonna place my left hand on the
top of the machine and put 5 – 7 pounds of pressure on the machine itself. This gives me even control and enhanced cutting ability on the painted surface. I want you to take notice that as
I’m polishing the vehicle the polish is turning clear. That
means I use the proper amount of polish and the abrasives have broken down to start fine cutting the paint. This clear area right here means that I’m doing the job properly and I’m getting great coverage and even paint removal over the
surface. For my last few passes, I’m going to
release pressure from my left hand and let the machine
free spin more. That will give me a nice luster and bring out added depth and pop to the paint after the cutting capability. So let’s
finish our last couple rounds of polishing. We removed all the swirls the scratches from the paint using our V36 cutting polish, now we’re gonna go ahead and remove the excess polish from the vehicle. Some people might choose to wait a
little while before the polish the whole car to remove the polish, but I personally recommend that you remove the polish right after polishing. The way the oils in the polish help remove it and get a better look in the end. I’m going to grab a clean microfiber towel, but before I place it on the surface, I want to make sure that it’s folded into 4’s. Fold it one way long, then the other way in half. And now you have a nice square that will give you a cushion to put your hand on as you remove the polish. Let’s go ahead and remove the V36. V36 takes little-to-no effort to remove because we used so little–only 5 dots. Remember we only used five pea-sized drops on this small panel. That surface looks real fresh! So now I’m gonna go ahead and grab my machine and remove my orange cutting pad and grab my white polishing pad. This is what I will use to brighten up the finish using our V38 finishing polish. I’ll give it a good shake… and once again I’ll place five small dots right on the pad. You want to be careful
with V38 that you don’t place too much on there because too much can go way too far very
quickly. One thing you’ll notice when I start polishing with V38 is that V38 has a lot of play time.
What I mean my play time is the working capability for the polish to work over and over and over again in multiple passes to get even, and very fine paint removal. This is what details like to call a
“Jeweler’s Polish.” That way you keep polishing a vehicle and brighten up the finish without removing that much paint for the best result possible. So just like we polished with V36 on an orange pad, I’m gonna use V38 and the white to achieve that great
finish. let’s go polish. Just like before, I’m gonna place our
polish all over the paint, that way when we turn on the machine, we don’t get any sling of the polish spraying all over myself
or the camera man. Go ahead and place my machine back on speed setting 1, and go ahead and spread over the surface. Now I’ll grad my machine, and turn it back up the speed setting six,
and I’m going to start my polishing. So, let’s go ahead and make this finish
look amazing! As you may have noticed on the camera, the polish has started to become clear,
and that means the polish has reached the end of its work cycle. That means that the finish a perfect and
the polish has done its job. I’m gonna go ahead and make two more passes applying light pressure machine to
finish out the surface. Then we’re going to inspect it, and apply some protection. So let’s finish out this V38 polishing. So now we finished our V38 polishing, I want you to notice as as I turn the machine off, I left the machine on the surface before
I turn the machine off. This way I don’t get any splatter,and I I also don’t wear out the bearings on the machine and keep a nice long life to our equipment. I’m gonna take my machine off the surface, and reach for a brand new microfiber towel once again, fold it in fours, and simply remove all the V38 from the surface. So now that we’ve completed the process of refining the finish with V38 finishing polish, we want to place some protection on the
surface. After you spend a lot of time and energy restoring your paint, you want to protect it against water spots, overspray, and contamination. And also can help prevent against any
light scratches that can occur back on the paint. To do that today I chose to use Lava:
the luminous glow infusion. That way we have the best protection
and the best look on this black metallic Audi paint. To use Lava, I’m going to spread it with a machine. You can spread it by hand, but since we’re using a machine to polish, I feel it will be quick and easy with a Porter Cable. I’m gonna remove our white polishing pad, and reach for a black polishing pad. This will be the perfect pad to apply our Lava right on the paint. Now we have the pad secured right onto the backing plate. I’m gonna grab our Lava, and simply scoop a nice amount right from the pot… I’m gonna place this directly right on
applicator pad. This way we get a nice even spread of Lava all over the surface.
So to spread Lava I’m gonna put the cord right over my shoulder, I’m also going to take the machine and
turned down the speed setting 2. That way I have a nice coverage without
having any abrasive machine power which could instill any swirls in the paint. Let’s go ahead and wax the car! Just like before the polish, I’m gonna go ahead and spread the wax and I might go and turn the machine on
and spreading evenly, making about two or three passes. There we go! Now the Lava is applied, and all we gotta do is wait 20 minutes before we remove the Lava to ensure a good bond to the surface. I’ll grab a drink water, and we’ll see you in 20 minutes. So we’ve let Lava dry for 20 minutes to ensure a great bond. Now we’re gonna grab our third microfiber towel fold it into fours, and remove the Lava to reveal the true beauty of the metallic black paint. Let’s go ahead
and remove it! Now we’re gonna remove the tape to show the 50/50 difference between the old and the new. Now I’m gonna take my inspection light and inspect the differences. Now you
can see we have a clear side on this side and the old side which has scratches and
swirls all on. We have a crystal-clear side on this side, and a hazy side right here. What a great finish! now we have swirl-free and scratch-free finish that’s really gonna look great in the sun. We can see all the metallic and sparkle color inside the paint, and it’s really gonna stand out once we take the car outside. So now you know exactly how to remove
all those pesky swirls and scratches from your paint, and make your finish
look great and awesome just like the day you bought it from the factory, or from the dealer. So, if you have any more questions about polishing or removing swirls and scratches, check out our website CheicalGuys.com

100 thoughts on “How To Remove Swirls, Scratches & Polish Paint with the Porter Cable 7424XP – Chemical Guys”

  • i have a question my 2009 maxima has lots of swirl marks i bought evertthing like you said in the video buy i messed up on one thing which was the polish
    i bought the right pads and backing pads and same machine

    but i have the whole car polish but the swirl marks are still there it did remove 50 percent they are some still left can i still use all three products that you have told in the video to take it out ??

  • Hey Greg:
    I thought that all of the optical compounds and polishes used smat technologies instead of dat technology. The way that you were talking about V36 in the video it's a dat based polish. Is that correct that it is a dat based polish?

  • It is "recommended". My old man painted cars for 30 years and he swore that just washing them with water, letting them dry, and storing them in a ziplock bag. Although, with waxes and sealants, i could see the use for cleaning them with some sort of pad cleaner because it can be tough to get the product to release from the foam.

  • I had a question for you guys , a while back when I first got my truck that had a few minor scratches my older brother insisted on helping me get them out by rubbing Rubbing Compound all over the scratches and well made things worse , the areas are now really foggy you can see a lot of swirls and even some of the clear coat is starting to peel off , is there anyway to fix this ? Or is the paint done ?

  • Who said guys don't go to beautyshop too lol this automotive beauty industry is becoming worst that women beauty shops. Back in the days I i used to clean my dad's car with tide and water :)))

  • Think you did something wrong when you put the second pad on?
    you forgot to spray it with the compound you used on the first once on a new pad?
    C.

  • I just purchased the porter cable, it was fantastic. It removed the swirls I had on my 2013 black Tahoe. I polished it and it looks great .I could not be any happier. Now I have to address the tire issue. But u guys have uploaded a video. So that problem is solved. I would like to say thank you chemical guys.

  • How much would it cost me to let my car completely get polished by someone like this? I own a BMW 1-series and the previous owners had some cats that climbed on top of it and now theres loads of small scratches on there and I'm interested to know how much it would cost to let someone fully polish and wax and do anything thats necessary to make my carpaint look like new again. Does anyone has an idea what the price will be like? Thanks in advance for the replies.

  • Seriously?  And no one finds this a little anal?  There are like 23 steps just to put the compound on the pad…..

  • Is it just me or is the lighting in that shop absolutely terrible, looks like the damn batcave. I get the inspection light, but do do the job comfortably, you'd need to use it the whole time to be able to see.

  • In addition to swirls, scratches, waterspots, chips, dings and dents… do you know what else ruins the look of your vehicle?

    Putting a damn mustache on it.

  • To Minutemadex: Go to a local car meet or "drive in" get together and talk with the people there about good detailers in your area. The skill and care of the detailer is very important, and results vary widely depending on who you use.  The guys at the car meet can probably tell you $ information for your area too.  Another approach is to go to some good body shops in your area and try to find out who they use as their detailer.  Many of the shops will try to sell you a detail service (which is fine), but some of them are paying somebody else to do the work and then adding an upcharge.  Better to develop a relationship with the guy who is actually doing the work.  Or for about $200 you can buy all the stuff you need to do it yourself.

  • So…
    1. Give the car a normal wash
    2. Claybar entire car
    3. Give another normal wash
    4. V36
    5. V38
    6. Lava

    How many hours is this going to take on a sedan if you had to guess?  Around 6 maybe?  And can you be in direct sunlight or is it better to be in the shade/garage?

  • What about polishing the edges of your car – are you supposed to use less pressure and/or go over those areas quickly?

  • I bought this kit and couldn't be happier with my results. I had some nasty scratches on the hood of my GTI that came right out using this method. I also had a pretty deep one on top of the bumper in back due to someone dragging a suitcase or golf clubs out instead of picking them up and lifting them out. I hit that with V32 and the scratch disappeared within seconds. It was a scratch deep enough that it would catch your fingernail if you scratched on it. You now can't even tell it was there.

  • My question is to do an entire 4 door sedan, how many towels and microfibers etc. do I need?  Every video I watch everyone sais grab a fresh towel.  These things are expensive.  Any advice is greatly needed.  Thanks!

  • I've just gone through this process on my vehicle with the v34 and orange hex-pad (as it's black with lots of swirls). I've noticed that I end up with a snaking pattern on my vehicle. Yes, the paint feels much smoother and in indirect light the black paint looks much deeper than before. But never the less, I still see a pretty dramatic snaking pattern from my 50/50 overlapping passes. Is this a sign that I didn't make enough passes or possibly did not spend long enough polishing (i.e. the compound was not able to fully break down)? When polishing I did make several passes at speed 6 and the compound did become clear before I wiped it off. Just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong…or is this pattern typical before the v36 or v38 is applied? Any constructive input is welcome from anyone who may have had this issue. Thanks.

  • I have a question…Ive noticed you primed your'e first pad but you didnt prime the other 2 pads , Should you be priming them ?

  • so is it the difference in the machines the (flex vs the porter cable) or just a change in your own procedural methods – concerning
    1. starting with disk on surface before turning machine on.
    2. turning off before lifting from surface.
    3. applying pressure – here with the PC you said to apply but on the flex video you let the machine do the work.

  • hi .i have recently searched your website and found paint corection compounds 700,721,778 , but you never mentioned in any video about these ones ( how its works what is a difference betwen them and v series) ?

  • I'm not sure you said "go ahead" enough, I demand a video where it's just you saying "go ahead go ahead go ahead" for five minute straight

  • Hey guys, I wet sanded some scratches from my Audi Q5 (black) but I am having a lot of trouble getting the scratches and haziness removed. I think I made the mistake of using Megiuar's rubbing compound for clear coats and ultimate polish along with the porter cable standard foam pad. The sand paper I used (wet) is 2000 grit.

    Do you recommend V34 or V36?

  • wow amazing thx for doing that audi. I feel better about doing mine great super helpful videos thanks chemical guys you guys do awesome and always happy to spread the word how great the products are

  • hello, nice demonstration. can you send me some samples of your product?? thanks just pm me and I'll give you my info.

  • I find this video too much talking. less talking and more to the point would have been more helpful.
    Anyway thanks for the useful information. I find this very helpful.

  • You guys seriously confuse me, you show so many machines/polishers and techniques that I really don't know what machine in particular would be the best allrounder for me because I really need a machine that is safe to go over rolled edges and body lines and curves without burning the paint or digging in to hard.
    From what I have herd it sounds like dual action machines are the best for that, but I was going to buy the Torq 10FX seems like an awesome machine, my biggest problem is I have a Black 2008 VE SSV Holden Commodore Wagon that has scratches/swirls and holograms that I really want to get rid of myself, but but I am a total beginer as far as properly detailing cars but I want to teach myself with the help of you guys and your youtube video's they are awesome.
    Also I Totaly need to Clay Bar my wagon first.

  • Why use so many pads? On some of your other videos you guys use (1) the orange. This video seems like there’s too many steps. Can’t I just use orange and wipe clean with terry cloth?

  • So could I just use the Polish with the white pad then wax with the black if I don't have any swirls or anything…or just use wax….

  • Wow something wrong with your website wont open up i tried doing other searches and they open up well. Will be a shame for me to use something else because of this

  • can i just use v38 with the white pad just to give the car a shine so dont have to hand polish or wax just bought a flex 3401 going to try v compounds great vids

  • Hi, I just purchased some of these products and the TorqX machine. Do I do all these steps everytime I do a 2×2 section or can I do the whole car one step first then move on to the second step. Sorry I asked

  • You keep saying your removing the paint when polishing the car, do you really mean you're removing the clear coat? Doesn't this ruin the protection of the clear coat? New to this polishing, just wondering.

  • Hello guys, I have one question, I have seem you use porter cable, but this machine is better than torq torqx? What do you recommed me? I am a beginner. Thanks

  • Hey. Would those 5 spots of polish wax and ETC do the whole vehicle? Or do you need to re apply that much for each section you do?

  • I used v32 with the orange pad and I didn't need to do another step. It was literally perfect. Made a huge difference.

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