Painting My Kitchen Cabinets – What I wish I had done differently

Nine months ago, I used this kit to paint
my kitchen cabinets. This is a story about what I would have done differently, had I known any better. I’m gonna try to show you the reality of painting your cabinets yourself. This entire project cost me $227.16! (Maniacal laugh) What you see over here is my kitchen cabinets that I’ve had to repaint — — and here’s a few more — — because they got so horribly scratched up. The reason why this kit appeals to
people is because it indicates that you don’t need to do any kind of stripping,
or sanding, or even use a coat of primer. And just like so many other things in life, if it sounds like it’s too good to be true, it probably is. Within the first month or two the drawers and cabinets that got the most
usage, like the silverware drawer and the glasses and plates, those cabinets and
drawers got so horribly scratched up. So here I am, nine months later, repainting
those cabinets and drawers. When I did this this project the first time around, I followed the instructions exclusively that are in the kit, with one exception.
Before I got started, I cleaned up my cabinets with TSP, which is “trisodium
phosphate.” What I found out later is that the TSP actually does the same thing as the deglosser, which comes in the kit. So essentially, I deglossed them twice. Once you’ve done that and they’re dry again, you go on to the bonding coat. And that’s where it starts to go wrong. This bond coat was not strong enough to adhere permanently to the clear coated
finish that was already on my cabinetry. So, as soon as our fingernails started
hitting it, or I tried to wipe it off with a sponge, it started to peel off. Even with two coats of that bond coat, it was not thick enough to not show the
brushstrokes unfortunately, but I left it that way because I just decided I wanted
to have that sort of country rustic look. After that it says go to the top coat. The problem with these top coats is, that a lot of them are polyurethane based. Which is a problem if you have cabinets
that are going to be hit by the sun a lot. Polyurethane yellows in the sun. Now there is another version of this kit for darker coated finishes, and then the
yellowing may not even be noticeable. But if you’re going for a white look like I
was, yellowing is going to be an issue. Okay, it’s a few days later, and as you
can see I’ve got everything back up and in place. In order to fix the doors and the drawer fronts that were the worst, I had to take them off, take them outside,
strip down the old paint, and then sand them down. Then I used a coat of primer,
and then I used this paint from the same kit, and the top coat, so that when I put
them back up, they would match. BUT if I were to do this again, here’s how it would go. Step 1: Use some TSP to clean up up all of the old cabinets. Just follow
the directions on the box. This stuff is great for getting all of the grime and
muck that gets stuck onto your cabinets. But it will also etch the surface a little
bit, so don’t use it for everyday cleaning. Step 2: do a little bit of sanding. You can hand sand the cabinet frames on the inside, but take the doors and the drawers outside and give them a really good sanding. Maybe use a palm sander if you have one or some other kind of power sander. You don’t
necessarily have to get all of the old finish off, you just have to get it
scuffed up enough for step three which is your primer. Now make sure you get a
primer that’s for wood surfaces, as opposed to what you would use on your
drywall. Even if you are gonna use one of the kits, add this step in. Step 4: I would do a little bit more sanding between the primer coat and the paint
coat. That just makes the finish a little bit nicer. And Step 5 is two coats of
paint. They do make special cabinetry paints. You can also use regular latex
paint that you would use on your wall. But it would be a good idea to buy an
additive that you can mix in there, which makes the surface a little bit harder
when it dries, so that it’s going to hold up better over time, and as you wipe it
down, and that sort of thing. If you do it this way, you shouldn’t even need a top coat. If you have pets that shed a lot, even if
you think you’re doing this in a room where your pets don’t normally go, you
end up with a lot of dog hair or cat hair on your body, which is going to
transfer onto your cabinets as you’re painting them. So just be mindful of that. Another thing is let these things dry longer than you think you need to. I’ve heard — after the fact — that it’s better if you have a deeper drawer pull here, like
a longer one. So that your fingernails don’t clip it every time you put your
fingers in there. I really thought I had done a lot of research, and knew what I was doing when I did this project. But it turns out that the best research is your own experience. So I’m hoping that you guys can learn from my experience, and do this project right the first time. Hello! Look! There she is. I can’t say that. “Drawer.” You’d be surprised how hard that is to say clearly for a southern girl. “Draw’r.” (Gibberish and vocal exercises)

local_offerevent_note December 7, 2019

account_box Matthew Anderson


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