Water Drop Photography | EVERY STEP from start to print


Hello in this video I’m going to show
you the amazing world of water drop photography I’m going to show you how I
created this amazing piece of art from concept right through to this print….
let’s go!! Hi I’m Adam and welcome to first man photography now before we get
into this, this video is sponsored by Squarespace if you need a domain name a
website or an online store, then make your next move with Squarespace right so
water drop photography what is it exactly well then what I’m talking about
is capturing the moment that water hits the surface bounces back up and creates
that beautiful water drop stem. You then capture it at that moment and that
creates water drop photograph the ones I do use an electronic dropper system that
then create these amazing drop collisions and produce just stunning
unique shapes you put food coloring into the water using color contrast
composition all to make these truly unique and special images it’s one of the
things I’m best known for and today I just wanted to go through a shoot with
you, show how I do it talk about a few things I have done an in-depth tutorial
before for you to watch if you want to give it a try I just wanted to make a water drop
video that I’ve not done for a while and take you through a typical shoot and
then show you a little bit of the post-processing and then the final
print at the end. Okay, let’s get set up and we’ll get on with our shoot. Okay so I’m pretty much set up to shoot
I’ll just go through the setup pretty quickly so firstly is the camera you’ve
pretty much got to have a macro lens I’ve got the Canon 100mm Macro L lens. Canon 5d Mark 4 camera…. it doesn’t really matter what can we use as long as
you can get a macro lens on there and then I have a 2 flash set up and I’m
firing the flashes with a wireless trigger on top here it’s important to
use flash in water drop photography because it’s actually the flash that is
freezing the movement in the water drop because you put the flash on a very low
power flash and it’s that that freezes the motion rather than the shutter speed
of the camera you just set camera shutter speed to the flash sync speed
which in the case of this camera is one two hundredth of a second and then it’s
that fast flash that actually freezes that water drop so I’ve got two flash
sets up the first one in the front here which is my main flash that’s gonna be
lighting up the water drop as it drops from the dropper here into the main
water bath and then I’ve got this second flush which is then lighting up the
background. Aperture wise I generally I’m in the area of f/8 – f/16. I’m at f/11 today
right in the middle with macro you get a pretty narrow depth of field even at
very high aperture numbers. So i’m at f/11 I might go up to f/16 in a bit and then
I’m balancing it out with my ISO which is about 400 ISO at the moment the water
dropper that I have here is called a splash art 2 – it uses this little control
box that plugs into the water dropper and it also fires your camera so the
timing is as accurate as you could possibly be it still takes a lot of
adjustment and a lot of practice to get things just right and get it to work and
it depends on it the liquids that you’re using as well okay so the final thing I
need to do before I start shooting is get my focus and in order to do that all
you do is fire a couple of drops off and I’m going to use this simple pencil just
dropped it in the water bath but I’m gonna use this pencil and just put that
in position where the water drops hit the bath and then I’m gonna focus to get
in exactly the right spot I’m then going to lock it off into
manual focus I can forget about my focus for the rest
of the shoot. So this is absolutely not the case of
just setting up and then firing away because it just doesn’t work there is a
lot of creativity involved we’re talking about slight movement in the flashes
because the way you light it is absolutely key because we’re working on
such a small scale slight adjustment in anything, composition, lighting, the colour
of the liquids, all makes a difference with the water dropper you can control
the size the first drop the gap in between the drops the size of the second
drop and the delay in shooting the camera and it’s about fine control over
these things that are going to get those really nice water drop collisions trust
me though it’s very frustrating at times it doesn’t always do what you want. It
changes depending on the thickness of the liquid as well you need patience and
you need persistence. It does take a lot of practice and a lot of shots to get where
you need to be Okay so the shoot is done I’m pretty
happy with what I’ve got in the camera let’s get over to the computer and
post-process those images I do have the absolute carnage to clear up first though,
look at this…. very messy Okay so here we are into the computer I’ve got myself
some glasses recently…. do you like them? let me know in the comments. Here we have
the final images I have taken about two hundred and seventy images but I have
also already narrowed it down to a few and I’ve put them into a collection
they’re all pretty nice I like all of them I like this one I like the shape of
it first if you look at this bubble here that really really ruins that one so I’m
not gonna be using that one this one I’m struck by this one and just by the size
of that collision I really like that and I also really like this one let’s have a
look at this one that’s a really nice image it’s a very very unique shape what
I don’t like about it is this strip here of light and that’s happened because of
the way I had the flash positioned it low down basically, and if you skip on to
the next one here I’ve just raised the flash up a little bit and it just it
narrows this reflection of the flash down to this tiny little portion here I
think that’s better although I am going to work with this one I’m going to remove
this strip in Photoshop so let’s go into the develop module and you’ve got a lot
of control in post-processing over your water drop shots, particularly with the
color and things like that and I’m actually quite happy with the white
balance but I’ll just show you what massive difference that makes to the
images and you can just make from one shoot you can get lots of different
looking images with different colours but I think we just need to raise the
exposure a little bit and then I’m gonna add in some contrast. Sometimes you don’t
need a lot of contrast in there is that’s not really what the image is
about back at about 30 and then going to reduce the highlights a little bit…. up
the shadows just a touch…… reduce the blacks a little bit so I’ve got a little bit of
black….. I’m going to increase the vibrance quite a bit……Go up on the saturation as well
because the whole thing is about color and then the clarity slider is an
important one just add in some clarity I’m gonna go down to the HSL
quickly and introduce a noise reduction because you want that nice smooth
imaging you don’t want any noise in there and then we will go to the HSL
panel here and I want to just reduce or change the color of the red a little bit
just so it doesn’t look quite as much like blood and that is starting to
look really really good. Okay into Photoshop and I’m just going to create a
new layer and also on the background there and all I’m gonna do is use the
simple tool here which is the magic wand tool select that highlighted
area then I’m gonna grab hold of the stamp tool on the background copy layer
and just drag that to the side just a touch and that will very nicely remove
that reflected area there’s then just a little bit of work to do here if i zoom
in I’m gonna go back up to layer clone stamp and just remove that tiny portion
at the top there I’ll work on that a bit more before the print and then it’s
just a case of going around and adjusting little bits and pieces where
there’s a mistake so here we’ve got another one I’m just gonna try and clone
that out I’ll stamp that out very quickly it’s just about going around the
whole image and tidying it up just a little bit with things like that and
that I mean that’s looking pretty good I might crop it down a little bit as
well into that sort of composition just to get a bit closer to the water drop
get the water drop filling the screen a little bit more save that and then we go
back in to Lightroom. So very quick post-processing there, let’s get that
printed out and we’ll see how the final image looks So here is the final image and just take
a look at this it is absolutely stunning if I can get it out the light there for you. I am very happy with how
this has turned out. All my water drop photographs are for sale on the website
over at www.firstmanphotography.com I would really appreciate it if you took a
look. There are two types. There are ones like this that are either mounted or
fully framed and there’s also amazing 1 meter square metal prints that are a run of 10
the prints are a run of 50 and they’re truly something special once you get
them in hand like this it’s coming up to Christmas it’d be a perfect gift idea if
you wanted to give one to a family member it would help me as well and
support me to keep creating these videos for free and really just appreciate it
though if you took a look check out that tutorial and if you haven’t already
please do subscribe to the channel there’s videos going up every Sunday I
am going to be doing a video on Wednesday this week as well so there’ll
be two videos coming up in the coming week which I’m quite excited about I do
want to go back to doing two videos per week also this video is sponsored by
Squarespace start your free trial today at squarespace.com and go to Squarespace.com/firstman to get 10% off of your first purchase. So I hope you’ve
enjoyed the video leave a comment down below and let me know you think and I’ll
see you on another one very very soon I’m Adam this is first man photography
in the studio….. Out!!!!

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