Wire Printing in Cura 4.0 on Ender 3, CR-10S Pro

Have you ever used wire printing in
Cura? It’s an experimental feature and produces some really interesting results.
It looks like I used a 3D pen to produce this but I didn’t. I did this on a 3D
printer. I’m gonna try out several different printers and show you how this
works on today’s Filament Friday. This episode of Filament Friday is brought to
you by these patreon supporters. To try out this wire printing I’m going to use
this spider-man bust that I found on Thingiverse by user Berlin Rockz so I
wanted to test the print first and this is the print at 75% of the original size.
So I downsized it a little bit, and I printed this on my CR-10S pro. Now I
gave this a weak review when I first reviewed it and it was mainly because of
the Auto level but I’ve since put on an actual buildtak sheet that buildtak
told me to try and it works great and then I lowered the sensor to just two
millimeters off the top of the bed. Just adjusted the screws and lowered it
like a lot of people suggested. And man what a difference. I’m getting a lot more
consistent first layer and it sticks still a little bit too much so I need to
tweak it from time to time but overall it’s been pretty consistent and the
print quality; I’ve been getting great print quality off this. In fact this is
at a 0.28 layer height using my profiles and it’s as good a quality
as I get at 0.2 on my CR-10. Now this is like $200 more but it runs quieter
with the TMC drivers and the print quality is really good. So once you get
that Auto level fixed and working right it’s definitely a really good printer. So
I’m changing my tune on this guy a little bit. Here’s a close-up of the
print. It’s not perfect by any means but 0.28 layer height, this is a pretty good
print. I’m really happy with the results I’m getting here. But now I have my basis.
Let me show you how to use the wire printing to print the same model on your
printer. Here’s the model loaded in to cura 4.0 on my Mac. I’m using Creality
CR-10S pro machine settings and my magic 0.28 profile. 0.28 layer height
0.4 line width, 5% infill, 205° and I’m using my Filament Friday filament
red. When that sliced it says it takes just over 5 hours to print. But it took
more like six. Now wire printing is down here under experimental. If you don’t see
it, click on the gear and in this search type ” wire ” then you’ll see wire
printing. Check that box, hit close and wire printing should show up under
the experimental menu. To wire print just check the box.
And reslice. Now you notice it takes a lot less time: two hours and two minutes
is what it says. Roughly half or maybe a third of the time but you can’t preview
it. The preview doesn’t work with the wire printing. Now instead of printing
this on the CR-10S pro because it was actually printing the bust when I
did this. I printed it on my CR 10 mini and I got a good camera angle of how
this works. So let me show you it so how this works, and this guy is about 2/3
done, is there sections that are popped up like Z hopped and then once those are
all in place it draws a line connecting all of them. Kind of creating the top of
the layer. And then once it finishes that it’ll stop and start the Z hop motion to
make the next layer of wireframe. So here it’s just about done and once it hits
this end point, now it starts making the next layer it goes up and down and makes
these triangular or sawtooth type build area. It goes up and down and up and down. Now if you’ve got a sensor like the CR-10S pro head, it occasionally it would
hit the print. Now it wasn’t hitting hard enough to knock anything off. But it was
hitting it where the CR 10 mini here was clearing pretty well and some of these
just don’t exactly stick perfect and some of them do. So it’s really a
variability and that’s what gives it that look like it was made with a 3D pen.
Let me show you a close-up of this thing in action. Here it is finishing that
layer that’s connecting all the triangles and now it’s going to start a
new one and it goes back and then forward. It’s really interesting how it
does it and then from there it starts to go straight up and then out up and then
out and you can see that some of them stick really well and some of them not
quite so. I might have needed to raise the temperature just a little bit but it
seems to be working well. Now I believe you need a fan, the
fan is blowing on this and that helps the filament stay in place and a better
fan than what the CR 10 has may help because you can see there’s one that
didn’t really stay in place so that’s where you start to get flaws in the
print. So you might be able to do a better job if you have better cooling
but this is really interesting to just watch how the does this and I wouldn’t
want to do this by hand so let the printer do it. Here’s the same bust but at
50% so it only took an hour to print these guys but I did it on Ender 3 and
Ender 3 Pro and CR-10S pro. Each one printed with some flaws but
overall pretty good results. Removing it from the bed actually became the
trickiest part of this whole print. Now this one’s on the CR 10 mini. This is the
one I just showed the close up of and I used my painters knife, it’s part of my
Filament Friday tool kit, we’ll have more of these very very soon (tool kits) but
I was able to slide it under and just slowly release this thing. And it’s very
fragile bottom. I’ll show you in a minute why the other printers didn’t quite work
as well as this Glass will really worked well. But that I could remove it and grab
this thing and it was surprisingly strong. I mean you can crush this but
it’s pretty solid and how this is put together so I’m really impressed
with how good this turned out. And this is the 75% size this is actually the
first one I printed on the Ender 3 and I had the bed a little bit too close.
I was printing something else I’ve had really tightened the bed down so the
spacing was a little too tight and when I tried to pull it off it just it pulled
apart so I had the bed way too close. But it showed me how critical it was to get
the bed just right for this type of printing. Now I tried to use a raft in
Cura to give me a nice solid base but wire
printing seemed to just ignore that setting. So I had to re-adjust the bed and
then I switched, I was running out of white, these are all Filament Friday
filament colors. So I printed one on the pro and one on the Ender 3 regular.
And the regular, I still didn’t have the bed right but it was better. The pro I
had that one adjusted perfect and this thing is smooth that came right off and
these are both really good prints. Red one came off the CR10S pro and
it’s the same 50% size as the ones that are on the Ender 3 but this one is
definitely a little more fragile than those black ones and it even can
separate here at the bottom. And I can squish the head a little more and the
difference is a setting in Cura. What I tried once I started playing with these.
I want to try a different line extrusion or extrusion with and see if that would
work with the experimental wire printing and see if it would make this
stronger. So let me explain what I did there. Before I explain that, here’s the
two black ones from the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro and then a red one from
the CR 10’s Pro. Tthose are all 50%, this one is 75% that was printed on the CR
10 mini. Up close like this you really don’t get the effect as if you stand back
and look at it but I wanted you to see up close how this thing looks. It’s
interesting kind of a zig zag puzzle. It almost looks handmade but it’s not, it’s
printed by the machine. But now let me explain the extrusion width and how it
affects strength. I have two prints here one is the red that was on the CR 10 Pro
and here’s a black one that was actually printed on the Ender 3 and notice I can
squeeze the red one more than I could squeeze the black one. Here’s the
difference. So here’s the bust at 50% inside Cura, everything else is pretty
much the same. The wire printing, 0.28 layer height o.4 layer width and
then like I said while you’re printing and then when I sliced it it took 1 hour
and one minute was the estimate and this is how I printed the red one then I went
back on the black one and I changed the line width or extrusion with 0.6 so it’s going to extrude more plastic. I sliced it again it said it
would take the same amount of time which was kind of strange but look what
happened. 0.34 millimeters is the width on the red one and 0.54 is on the black one so it worked in Cura it did add some extrusion and
that’s why the red one is easier to squeeze. And the black one is a little
bit stiffer. I ended up printing two of these; one on the Ender 3 and one on
the Ender 3 Pro. In both cases I use the same extrusion with 0.6 and
they’re both a lot stronger. I did use the 0.4
on this 75% size on the CR 10 mini. It printed really good but it’s definitely
not as strong as those black ones. so I think that extrusion width actually
helps even though I couldn’t do a raft. It did accept the higher extrusion width
at least it appears that it did. And made the prints stronger so I think the next
step maybe is to try this out with a larger nozzle and the perfect printer to
probably do that on is my Artemis back here because it prints really big and
it’s already got a bigger nozzle. It’s got a 0.5 nozzle and see if I can do the
extrusion trick and get that bigger. I can even put a 0.8 on that thing
real easy and it prints a lot faster. And that’s the beauty of this too, is it
prints so much faster than a solid model but they’re different they’re totally
different the fact that you can see through this one makes it really an
interesting effect. I can see making a really big one like 200 percent size or
150 percent size in that thicker extrusion and maybe be a good display
for a Maker Faire or something like that. So this is an interesting effect totally
different than anything else I’ve done. What do you guys think? Let me know in
the comments below. That’s it for this week. If you want to know other Cura
tricks I’ve got lots of videos some of them are popping up over here. I’ve even
got a playlist of Cura. If you want to help support the channel patreon is one
way or just use the affiliate links in the description below. And if nothing
else click on that CHEP logo and subscribe and click that little Bell so
you don’t miss an episode. I’ll see you next time right here the Filament Friday

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